It's been a busy week, not unusually difficult (at least not like our last week in Sudan anyway) but still tough. We've covered a good distance through Ethiopia and climbed to our highest point on the tour (3108m according to Mr. Garmin). Apologies for not writing more but a combination of a lack of motivation and a lack of energy effected themselves.
The day after I last wrote we had one of the most difficult climbs of the tour - the Blue Nile Gorge. This is a 1200m descent and ascent from 2500 metres down to 1300 metres, to a bridge which crosses the Blue Nile. The descent took approximately 25 minutes (I am ashamed to say that I had to use my brakes on a number of occasions, to avoid rocks, trucks and substantial potholes whilst also trying to prevent my bottles from jumping out of my bottle cages), whilst the ascent took me 2 hours and 38 minutes. (The fastest rider took about an hour less.)
Climbing isn't my forte - I normally grind up a hill, I think in this case, a slightly wider cassette would have been desirable (my lowest gear is 34-25). I started the climb after 11am and the day only became hotter as I ascended. Luckily with the increase in altitude, the temperature dropped, which offset the heat beating down from the sky. The sorry expression on my face (a look of exhaustion and inability to speak/breathe) handily stopped the roadside locals from trying to converse with me too much. I found also that choosing relaxing music was better to help my concentration - anything too heavy and my heart rate would climb through the roof whilst resulting in no additional forward velocity.
The climb passed unusually quickly, as I just kept 'mashing' the pedals forward, looking down at my odometer periodically to discover that the total number of kilometres was actually rising, albeit slowly. I wasn't overtaken by many riders which was pleasant - I despise being overtaken when I'm working as hard as physically possible.
As the top approached, the nature of the climb just conquered was belittled in my mind - previously it had seemed like a near impossible feat. My impression of climbing? With some pain, sweat, lots of zigzags and some slight sunburn, it is not so impossible. Some beautiful views and this was probably the second real 'Holy S**t I'm Cycling Through Africa' moment of the trip (the first being in the deserts of Sudan).
Relieved to have reached the orange Finish flag, I kept cycling and actually went a few kilometres past the campsite. Realising my error, I decided to grab a cold drink before heading back home. An outwardly friendly gentleman who spoke semi-decent English helped direct me to a drink seller and as I went to pay, he took the money in and came out with my 2 Bir change (approximately ten pence). Before I knew what had happened, he ran off down the street and the man selling drinks explained that I had just been robbed. There we go.
The next day of riding was easier and shorter. In the morning, conscious of the everpresent threat of rock throwing children, I quickly braked to a halt (endo-ing my bike, with the back wheel two feet above the ground). I turned around and chased down the boy in the red t-shirt, down the side of the road into a gated building which I assume was his home. It was here where (I assume, again) his mother came out, with the most terrified expression I have ever seen on a woman on her face. She was almost hysterical, speaking Amharic fast (not that this helped my lack of understanding). I tried to explain to her that rock throwing was unacceptable and she seemed genuinely apologetic. Hopefully the kids learnt their lesson - the rock they threw hit my crank and scratched the glossy black paint with some depth.
Later on in the day, I received a brick sized rock to my left shin as I was cycling downhill at 50kmph. I immediately stopped and tried to chase down the kids who ran into the field adjacent. Unfortunately their rock had also knocked my chain off and my attempt to pedal further resulted in a bizarre knot in the chain. A truck stopped at this point and the driver was ready to help. Unfortunately there was nothing that could be done but I'm glad to see that at least the adults are somewhat compassionate. Later on I was a moving target for another gang of children and yet another lorry stopped. This time he yelled at the kids and followed me for some distance to make sure I wasn't bothered again - very grateful for his help.
I'm not sure what twisted joy the kids receive out of throwing rocks at us and I've been relatively lucky (one child managed to hit a rider in the groin with a rock - true pain). It's sad to see how this has changed the perception of all of the riders. Some comment on how amazed they are at their feelings towards these kids who assault them with rocks - one rider who is raising money for a charity which does some work in Ethiopia says it is very disheartening that these people he is trying to help are obliviously hurting him and other riders. I'm a firm believer in karma - I won't throw a rock back at these kids, remembering the quote from Ghandi - 'An eye for an eye will make the whole world blind.'
Rocks aside, it was refreshing as we arrived in camp to notice that the kids had switched to saying 'Hello'. Supposedly a local lecturer at a university made posters telling people to say 'Hello' instead of 'Youyouyouyou'.
The altitude is definately affecting riders' physical ability. Marcel commented on how he was finding it hard to breath, shortly before he smoked half a pack of cigarettes. I'm finding the load on my respiratory system more significant too and I've been using my inhalers more (and not smoking at all before anyone gets worried).
The final day of the week was a non-race day which was a beautiful way to finish the section. The morning prayers were even earlier than normal (4am, what on earth are they thinking?) although apparently this was coming from the nearby Christian monastery now. I took it very easy and we ate a very long lunch. The sharp climb to the beginning of the convoy wasn't as difficult as the drawing appeared and the convoy was pretty much entirely downhill into Addis Abeba.
The convoy was a hilariously African affair, having no police support what so ever. A group of riders took off before the vehicle that was meant to be at the front of the convoy and it was quite a few kilometres before they managed to rejoin the actual convoy! Marcel didn't have working brakes so he'd pull over every so often and wait for the convoy to pass before joining it at speed and reaching the front in a matter of seconds. Our convoy vehicles were the local support's minibus and the Drama Queen (TDA's 4x4) and they took traffic law into their own hands, skipping red lights and blocking roundabouts.
1 comment posted so far
Ash wrote at 5:33 pm on Mon 22nd Feb -
Sunil - I am deeply sorry for the troubles the unruly kids are giveing TDA riders. it is pethetic that the govt is not doing any thing. TDA should talk to responsible bodies seriously. Ever since I started following TDA every rider has complained about it. I understand this comes with in the territory and al you have to do is see the positive side (I am sure there is plenty). One thing for sure Ethiopia is a bikers paradise. A lot of climbing followed by a rewarding descent.Waiting for the pics. take care